Tell me more about this Hi-Tec spray... I’ve used RIT Dye More for boiling (really helps to get a black base).
*Cracks knuckles over keyboard*
Next to sandpaper, automotive spray vinyl dye is the favorite tool in my customizing toolbox - I use it whenever possible, and it does not disappoint. With good prep, complete color changes are easy. Here's a link to my RS thread showing some of the other figures I've used it on before joining the Shipyards:
https://forum.rebelscum.com/showthread.php?t=1103201I started using spray dye as a noob after my first abortive attempt at using RIT to make a BoShek custom. I simmered the yellow Bossk pieces in the stuff for many hours over a weekend -- The result was brown pieces with blue joint disks. (I've heard about adding acetone to the RIT to promote bonding, but putting an explosive solvent in a metal pan over a gas oven burner seems like a special kind of reckless.) Having been a gearhead back in my young 'n' single days, I decided to try black VHT. Haven't looked back since. The info below was originally posted in the RS thread, but I've updated it a bit.
Pros:
- Dye is more durable than acrylic with respect to rubs. One of my first custom attempts was removing the casting marks from the forearm and painting the white elbow joint on a TBS Padme. After sanding the disc for clearance and finally getting a good paint match, I applied a couple of very thin coats of acrylic. After giving it a few days to dry, I re-assembled the arm, and on the first move I scraped a chunk of paint off. The dye helps prevent that sort of thing, but it will still scrape with enough friction. I've had to re-do a few dyed joints after finding out that sculpted details were causing scrapes. As an extra step, I smooth out anything in a joint that might rub ("L" and "R" marks, etc.) before spraying.
- VHT is tougher than Hi-Tech, but Hi-Tech has a larger color selection. Denatured alcohol does a very good job of stripping Hi-Tech, but it won't even dent VHT after it cures. I found this out the hard way. My SOP is to stick or tape individual pieces to be sprayed on q-tip sticks, and poke the sticks through holes in the top of a small cardboard box for drying. After spraying a batch of parts with VHT, one of the parts shifted and hit the part next to it. They stuck together, and the wet dye smeared. I
immediately dunked them in a container of denatured alcohol but the dye wouldn't come off -- Ended up destroying one of the parts trying to remove the dye with Goof-Off.
- The dye is flexible. Haven't seen any cracking or flaking on soft parts like lower tunics.
- The durability can help during the build process, too. As an example, I first sprayed the torsos of Fozec and the other shirtless guy ("SG") with Hi-Tech "Dark Red," then painted the details with acrylic. It took at least twelve attempts to match the skin tone on SG's torso to his arms and head -- After each failed attempt, I'd drop the torso in a small container of Simple Green. The Green would quickly dissolve the acrylic, but didn't damage the original red dye. Similarly, I've used light swipes from a magic eraser sponge to remove excess acrylic washes without damaging the base dye. Too much magic eraser will remove dye, though.
- I've boiled and popped dyed pieces with no problem, but honestly, I try to avoid it. I use a hair dryer when putting pieces back together.
- No problems with reactions between the dyes and acrylics, various clearcoats, cured green stuff, or decal setting solution (yet). My perception is that a dyed piece takes paint for detail work better than raw plastic does. I've noticed that flat white dye is vulnerable to receiving paint rubs from other dyed pieces, but these rubs can usually be removed with a magic sponge-type eraser. Maybe it's the chalky texture, I don't know. Haven't tried yet, but I'm wondering if a coat of Testors clear might prevent this...
- Excellent coverage. The best example I can give is my Yerka Mig figure. It only took two light coats of VHT to change the TBS Luke's black shirt to yellow. No priming or brush marks. If you prep the joint discs properly (sand them to prevent rubs), you can use the dye on them, too. Although the dye bonds to soft PVC parts, it seems to act like paint on the disks. Here's how I spray a part with a moving joint:
- First, I use a rubber glove to hold the parts while spraying. The actual spraying is done as I hold the part in a large cardboard box (to catch the overspray) in my garage, with the door open and a fan running.
- Place a q-tip stick into the hollow end of the joint. This is the "handle" for the part. It needs to fit tightly for the next step - Sometimes I'll wrap masking tape around the stick if necessary.
- Holding the "handle," use needle nose pliers to move the joint peg to an end of the joint. Gently, so the pliers don't chew marks onto the peg. The mini-pliers I use are toothless.
- Spray a light coat, wait a few minutes (I usually have several parts to dye at once, so I just cycle through them one coat at a time).
- Use the pliers to carefully move the joint peg to the other end and spray another coat. This is usually enough, but I'll use extra coats as necessary.
- I used to mask the pegs, but don't bother anymore. The tape would often slip while I was moving the pegs, and dye on the pegs is easy to flake off with an X-acto knife or a q-tip dipped in denatured alcohol.
- I
do mask swivel joint pegs like waists and hips. Trying to push a dyed swivel peg in place can be tough. I'll also use tiny amounts of water-based lube to make re-assembly easier. Nothing petroleum-based that would attack plastic, obviously.
Cons:
- Color selection is limited, and obviously you can't mix shades. VHT and Hi-Tech are intended for auto upholstery and carpet, so there are a lot of earth tones and grays but fewer of the primary colors. I've recently tried another brand called Meltonian that is targeted for the shoes/purses market. The color selection is pretty good, and based on the smell I would guess that it's similar to Hi-Tech. (Not that I huff the stuff, but there is a distinct difference between VHT and the other two.) Meltonian comes in smaller cans, and is easy to find on Amazon or eBay. The only downside to Meltonian is that the spray pattern is harder to work with. I've had to spray heavier coats than I'd like, so that the dye "settles" smooth and doesn't look pock-marked (for lack of a better description). I'm not talking about the "fisheyes" caused by grease on a surface to be painted, it just seems that thin coats of Meltonian leave a rough texture behind. I've only used it twice, so I don't know how common this is.
- Dye is expensive, and can be hard to find. Although Dupli-Color markets something called vinyl paint at most auto parts chains, from what I can tell it's not an actual dye. There is an auto detail supply store nearby that carries the Hi-Tech dye, and it costs about $10/can. I have to buy VHT and Meltonian through eBay or Amazon, and with shipping (it's hazmat) one can of VHT costs around $15. On the other hand, a little goes a long way.
- Prep work is still necessary, basically the same as when painting. Joints have to be prepped to avoid rubs. I also remove factory paint from pieces to be dyed. I don't know for sure, but I assume the dye won't bond through existing paint. In addition, I don't want to clog up small details with extra layers of stuff. Keep in mind that the stuff is designed for vinyl, so while it works great on the soft PVC parts of figures, it probably wouldn't be any better (worse, I'd expect) than regular paint on a hard plastic part.
- Patience is required. Per the VHT can, you can apply coats about every five minutes but if you find out later you missed a spot, or want to add an additional coat, you have to allow a week for the dye to cure first. It can be a drag when you're in a groove and have to hold off on reassembly for another week because you've had to re-do a scraping joint.
- I found that if you reassemble parts before they've had enough time to cure, the dye can cause the parts to stick together. When the color change isn't too drastic, I like to sand the concave joint areas with 2500 grit paper to remove any dye and reduce the chance for rubs. In addition, surfaces that have been dyed have a "tack" to them - If you haven't moved a dyed joint (especially a swivel) for a while you'll experience a little "crack" when the joint moves. Some of my customs are years old, and although they often make the "crack," I haven't seen any damage yet.
- You need a ventilated workspace. The kitchen table won't work. In addition, weather can affect the spray. Excess humidity or cold are bad ju-ju. The cans will break that down for you.
